Stabilization of turnovers of the sverdluvalny verstat for sverdlinnya boards. General information about drilling typesetting. Drilling machine for cutting boards Motor for drilling cutting boards
It was necessary to drill a plate with a manual drill, and it was done to prepare a small drilling bench, including for other boards. Constructions on the Internet will be updated again, for any relish. Marveling at the descriptions of similar drills, repeating the drill on the basis of elements from an uncommon, old CD ROM. Understandably, for the preparation of this drilling verst, it is possible to beat the materials that are at hand.
In the case of an old CD ROM, for the preparation of a drilling verst, only a steel frame is taken, mounted on it with two straight ones, and the carriage, as if it is changed straight. In the photo below, everything is good.
The electric motor of the drill will be reinforced on the ruhom_y carriage. For fixing the electric motor to the carriage, a L-shaped bracket was made with a steel frame of 2 mm.
At the bracket, open for the shaft of the dviguna and screws of the yogo fastening.
In the first variant for the drilling verst, an electric motor of the type DP25-1.6-3-27 with a voltage of 27 and an intensity of 1.6 W was selected. Wine axis on the photo:
Practice has shown that this engine is weak for drilling robots. The intensity of yoga (1.6 W) is not enough - with the least voltage, the engine simply hums.
The axis looked like this at the stage of preparation:
Tom had a chance to shukati another electric motor-harder. And the preparation of the drill bit was rattling.
Continuation of the process of preparing a drilling verst.
After an hour, having spent an electric motor to the hands of a selected faulty Canon inkjet printer:
There is no marking on the engine; A steel gear is mounted on the motor shaft. The shaft of this engine has a diameter of 23 mm. After removing the gears, a collet cartridge was pressed onto the motor shaft, and a sprat of test drills with a drilled diameter of 1 mm was crushed. The result is reassuring - the "printer" dvigun buv is clearly narrower than the DP25-1.6-3-27 dvigun and is freely hardened textolite with a thickness of 3 mm at a pressure of 12 V.
Therefore, the preparation of the drilling verst was continued.
We fix the electric motor for the help of the L-shaped bracket to the swinging carriage:
The basis of the drilling verst is made from a 10 mm screed.
In the photo - blanks for the base of the verst:
In order to prevent the drilling work from breaking down on the table at the time of drilling, on the lower side there are gum feet:
The design of the drilling verst-cantilever type, so the frame that you carry, with the engine, is fixed on two cantilever brackets, on a working stand in the base. The whole thing was made in order to secure the drilling of large other boards. The construction is clear from the sketch:
The working zone of the verst, you can see the white light of the light source:
The axis is implemented in such a way as to enable the working zone. The photo shows the transcendental brightness of illumination. Really pardon the enemy (when the camera shines) - really everything looks better:
The cantilever design allows drilling boards with a width of at least 130 mm and an unbounded (at reasonable boundaries) dozhinoy.
Wimіr rozmirіv roboї zona:
The photo shows that the stop at the base of the drilling verst to the axis of the drill should be 68mm, which ensures the width of the cutting of the drilled boards is not less than 130mm.
To feed the drill down when drilling, the pressure important is visible in the photo:
For the morning, it was drilled over the drilled board before the process of drilling and turning it at the exit, the position after the drill was to serve as a return spring, as it was put on one of the direct ones:
The system of automatic regulation of the engine wraps in the fallowing state.
For the efficiency of coring with a drilling bench, two options for adjusting the frequency of the engine wrap were selected and tested. In the first version of the drill with an electric motor DP25-1.6-3-27, the regulator was selected according to the scheme from the magazine Radio No. 7 for 2010:
Tsey regulator pratsyuvati yak not want to fit, so buv ruthlessly vikinuty from the mind.
For another variant of the drilled versat, based on an electric motor from a Canon inkjet printer, websites of cats-radioamators bula found another circuit of the frequency regulator wrapping the shaft of the electric motor: 
The controller ensures the operation of the electric motor in two modes:
- For the current momentum, otherwise, if the drill is not worth the cost, the shaft of the electric motor is wrapped with a lower speed (100-200 rpm).
- When the pressure on the engine is increased, the regulator will turn up to the maximum, ensuring the normal drilling process itself.
The frequency regulator is wrapping an electric motor, picking up a circuit, putting it in a loop without adjusting it. My idle speed was getting close to 200 rpm. At the moment of torsional drilling, the cost-turnover increases to the maximum. After the completion of drilling, this regulator reduces the engine speed to the minimum.
The regulator of turns of the electric motor is selected for small drukovaniy khustts:
Transistor KT815V can be a small radiator.
The regulator board is installed in the back of the drilling bench:
Here the resistor R3 with a nominal value of 3.9 ohms was replaced by an MLT-2 with a nominal value of 5.6 ohms.
The testing of the drilling verst was successful. The automatic frequency control system wrapping the electric motor shaft works cleanly and silently.
A small video clip about the work of the Sverdluval verst.
Eh, I haven’t written anything here for a long time. Perhaps, the time has come to resurrect the theme of "crazy hands", as a few projects of various stages of completion on radio electronics have accumulated. Well, let's get started.I'm guessing that a skin radioamator can be a tool for drilling holes in other boards. I especially vikoristovuyu dvigun DPM-35-N1-02 with a set of collets, connections to an 18 volt adapter. However, something in this system did not rule me, but the very ability to smoothly regulate the wrapper of the engine. For an hour, for the sake of a thin robot, or to get rid of the “battle”, it drilled or cut, you want to change the speed of the wrap around the shaft a little, you can’t make that upper boundary anymore, all the same, a 30-volt engine. If you want - let's go. After a bet-three evenings with a computer and a soldering iron, it was about the same.
Ready to live in the same way as the electrical supply, use the live block, voltage stabilizers for power and signal lines and PWM controller, selections based on the NE555 timer. Why SHIM? Obviously, the speed of the engine can be smoothly changed, zastosovuyuchi regulation of the parametric stabilizer, or even a tighter rheostat, but the strain and heating of the circuit elements will be absolutely unacceptable. If you want to know more about the subject, I recommend looking up to relevant materials for the principles of WIM in the measure. In a nutshell, pulse-width modulation makes it possible to achieve greater economy and meager thermal imaging. Therefore, the main unit of the circuit is the 555th timer, which works in the mode of a rectilinear pulse generator, with the regulation of the trivality of їx to the sparuvatnosti. Before the timer exits, a key gate is connected through the transistor driver, which switches the power of the lances.
As you can see, with a path of small modifications, the circuit can be redesigned to control whether there are any changes in the standing stream with a wide range of intensities, from a room fan to an electric stove. It is more necessary to secure the need for a viable life jacket, and choose a power key for the required voltage and struma.
Let's take a quick look at the robot of the scheme. Transformer living block to this particular type toroid, 220 to 35 volts), remove VDS1 straightener and capacitor filter C1-C2. Then, for the help of the LM338T stabilizer, a 30 volt electric motor is formed (cutting a total of 3-5 volts does not impose additional electricity on the external stream of the microcircuit and may not be played), and for the help of L7812 - 12 volts of the driver for the life. The frequency-setting capacitor C10 is connected to the threshold output of the 6th timer in such a way that it changes the hour of the 1st charge to the hour of the discharge, and then, the trivality of the pulses on the output 3 to the їх spruvatnost, is set by the dilnik on the changeable resistors R3 and a pair of diodes VD2-VD3. Resistor R4 is used to turn off a short circuit between the plus of life and removal of the 7th discharge timer at the extreme position of the change resistor. From the third display of the timer to remove the pulses, go to the driver on the complementary pair of transistors T1 and T2: BD139-BD140. The driver serves to strengthen the signal and secure the forced output/shutdown of the power MOSFET T3. In principle, it is possible to manage even without a driver, “pulling up” the NE555 to a plus of life through a kilo-ohm resistor - all the same, the circuit is single-cycle, and the frequency is relatively low. We are not so important timing characteristics and the stability of the operation of the key "with precision to the millimeter", and the power of the key shutter is small. However, the scheme was developed as a universal solution, for stosuvannya її nadalі as a regulator of rіznyh navantage, so I left the driver anyway. Then the signal is sent to the gate of the polovik, which switches the power line. I appealed to the IRF530 for a meager price and for those who, with a smaller working strum, had only police officers in “legless” cases, and I didn’t want to call SMD in my opinion. And so 14 amperes for the eyes of the wind - DPM saves 700mA maximum. There is less frivolity of keruyuchih signals, and also і impulses on the engine, tim nizhcha shvidkіst yogo wrapping, і navpaki. Axis with a twist and all the main elements of the scheme. Zahisny diode at the output - about every fluctuation, light diode for controlling the voltage at the power and signal parts of the circuit. In order to blame the problems with the stability of the speed of the wrapper of the engine, you can install a capacitor in parallel with the outer terminal by a quarter of a microfarad, although with this range of regulation it will sound a little, but if it’s at your discretion, I don’t put it especially. 
That's how the friend looks. The file for Spring Layot is added as a stat. Dzerkati in front of the rozdruk is not required. Dimensions pay 190x75 mm. Specially bred for a radiator, which I have.
What can you ask? I do not recommend, but you can change the number of filtering electrics, remove the driver, protect and light. It is still possible to liquidate the block of life, as well as to invest in it. Dali ask already a lot of kudi. 
This is how the sound of the payment looks like ready attachments. I have a couple of radiators, so I don’t save on them, wanting to be practically tested to show that I don’t need additional heat.
Dali already "cosmetics": place the board in the case, put on the "muzzle" the handle of the changer and the rose for connecting the engine. I didn’t know anything compact for COM-іvski DB09 in Komorі, that happened to beat it. Some kind of mini-jack looking more richly sympathetic. On the back wall of the fringes, a vimikach and a wire with a fork. Dodatkovy vimikach placements directly on the body of the engine for a swedish tooth.
Of course, there is no need to talk about compactness here - the important thing was viishla, but not a trace of forgetting what kind of ready-made version “turned on and worked”, before the simplest design and choice of cheap components. When installed, zastosovuyuchi SMD details that transformerless unit eating, you can fit into the dimensions of a pack of cigarettes;
The process of testing the drill was carried out in a controlled manner: the speed is smoothly regulated from 100% to 10%, the moment on the shaft is equal, without delay. After three times the work, maybe all the elements of the circuit are cold, krim 7812 - a little heat.
Zagalom who needs to be greeted for health. To blame it for food, write here, think about it.
Oh so, the price of food according to the price comes out to be close to 400 rubles, so you can buy all the details for the market price. You need to say that more than half of the spare parts came from the gas shops and nothing was spared.
I, nasamkinets, archives with seal and specification.
Additional food from comments. About every vipadok, having written thoroughly, chi is not enough :)
Let's go in order:
1) How to organize a smooth start of the engine?
To implement a smooth start, we speed up the control voltage function, which is in the NE555 timer. The same timer switch, number 5, allows you to control the reference voltage of the comparator, which is victorious when charging and discharging the capacitor, which sets the hour. Nominally, the reference voltage should be set to 2/3*Upit, but by applying voltage to the 5th leg of the microcircuit, the voltage is from 0 to Upit, we can change the threshold for the authority's judgment. What happens when you do? Without going into details, the capacitor, which sets the hour, is charged until the feast, until the voltage on the new one reaches the threshold of the comparator's spratsovuvannya, after which the lance discharge is turned on. If you increase the threshold value, then the “tooth of the saw” on the capacitor will become wider and narrower - as a result, the width of the pulses at the output of the timer will also increase, if the threshold is changed, the width of the “tooth” will also change - the pulses at the output will become narrower. Moreover, this effect is superimposed by changing the PWM coefficient, which is set by changing the resistor, and they are the highest priority.
Well, it means that it is necessary for us that the voltage on the 5th time of the timer gradually increased from zero to 2/3.
The simplest thing is to implement the RC Lancer for help. As we remember from the course of physics, the voltage on the capacitors is not mittevo, but step by step in the world of the first charge. For the hour of the charge, the value T is constant for the hour of the charge of the capacitor. T is calculated according to the formula T \u003d R * C, de R is the opir of the resistor connected in series with the capacitor, and C is the capacity of the capacitor itself. For an hour T, the capacitor is charged by 63%, and the magnitude of the voltage between the plates reaches 63% of the applied call. For an hour 3 * T, the capacitor is charged by 95%. In our opinion, in rozrahunkah mi "vіdshtovhuvatimemosya" in the form of the value of T, the spikes of їy vіdpovіdaє the most steep curve of the charge / discharge of the capacitor, and also the most clearly pronounced expressions on the trivality of the period of soft start.
In this way, we need to connect our RC lance in such a way that from the upper plate of the capacitor we take the voltage to the 5th leg of the timer, ground the lower plate, and connect the resistor of the lanyard to the voltage socket, the value of which is the same for the ION comparator NE555, so that two thirds of the voltage . The oscillating value of the reference voltage is more or less assigned to simple spіvvіdnoshennia, and not to specific passport values, it makes life much easier for us - it’s not necessary to worry about the drive’s voltage drop, build a stabilizer on the stabilitron, finish a simple resistive dilnik. Resistors of the dilnik of the guilty mother are supported by one to two, for example, 5 and 10 kilo-ohms. Resistor RC lance with one visnovk is connected to the middle point of the dilnik, and the other to the upper lining of the capacitor. It is better to put a substring resistor in a row, so that the mother can smoothly change the trivality of the transitional process. For example, vikoristovuyuchi 50 kOhm builder and 100 uF capacitor, we take the control range of 0.5 to 5.5 s. "Zayvі" pіvsekundi z'yavlyayutsya for the account of the fact that in the charge of the capacitor, the resistor of the upper shoulder of the dilnik, with a nominal value of 5 kOhm, also takes part in the charge of the capacitor. Since such a value of the lower limit of regulation is not in power and you want to be smaller, you can change either the capacitance of the capacitor, or support the arms of the dilnik (proportionally). But I’ll tell you again - for an electric motor, the transitional process less than half a second will be practically incomprehensible, to that I’ll “harder” the inertia of the calm anchor. As a rule, we don’t need regulation, we put a constant resistor on the nominal value, and, in our opinion, on the skin 10 com ~ 1 second to an hour of charge.
In principle, it is already possible to eliminate everything, and a smooth start is practicable, but here there is one unacceptable nuance. Let's assume that we gave a lively signal to the circuit, the capacitor was fully charged, and the motor smoothly increased its nominal speed. What will you do to turn off the timer life? The engine starts to vibrate more and more, and the capacitor RC lance is more smoothly discharged through the change resistor and the lower arm of the dilnik. The stop here is for the one who will have a larger hour of discharge, a lower hour of charge, the lower arm resistor may have a larger opir, a lower upper resistor. Clearly, as now we turn on the timer again, without starting the current hour, then the transitional process will start not from zero, but from the first value of the voltage on the capacitor, until it is charged. Therefore, it is necessary to transfer the method of the condenser discharge. The simplest thing you can do is to put a diode parallel to the change resistor, anode to the conder. In this order, the charge goes through the resistor, and when discharging, the resistor is shunted by a diode for an hour after the discharge to lie only at the nominal value of the lower shoulder of the dilnik. And even in a second (at a nominal value of 10 kOhm), the motor shaft will not catch a full ringing, so you can’t create any short-term improvement / deactivation.
The remaining version of the part of the circuit that implements a smooth start, looks like this:
(Everything else is left as in the main scheme).
The payment for the payment can be re-arranged on the right, it is not foldable.
2) How to turn on / off the voltage for a low-voltage circuit. Here it’s easier than ever. The most correct place, where the varto vrіzati vimikach, sho bezpechuє with the least turn with the low-voltage voltage switched on, following the VD1 diode (behind the circuit). Ale slіd vrahuvati, scho tsіy point potential is high, for the circuit 30 volts. You can also put a button after the LM7812 (there will be 12 volts there), but if you put a small strum at the switched-off station, the idling strum of the stabilizer. There are even fewer economical points for installing a vimikacha: you can install it “into the open” at any place between the 3rd NE555 and the gate of the T3 transistor, or in the same promіzhka, but zamikayuchi “on the ground”. If the timer generator is practicable, then the pulses from the output do not reach the gate of the transistor. Ale ce is already in the category of "shkidlivih joys." :)
I alone, the remaining option: still put a vimikach at the high-voltage lance. Here, the main shortfall is that when the inductive navantage is turned on / turned on, which is the winding of the electric motor and winding just long rods, surges of the voltage are settled, that’s why the VD4 diode is worn out in the wiring circuit. For those, there is one great perevaga: if the helper is on the right side of the control unit, you can place the on / off button directly behind it, without pulling additional wires. Itself so I and zrobiv on my drill - the button is right under the finger, on the body of the microdrill, so that you can quickly click it, without touching the vibration on the block.
I do not recommend vikoristovuvat all settings of the buttons krіm first and other. Before speech, reshta do not allow to beat the above described soft start scheme.
There is another such moment, which I did not imagine in the main scheme and description, due to the fact that in it the power signal parts turn on and mimic strictly at the same time.
The gate of the field-effect transistor is pulled to ground with a 50-100 kOhm resistor. It is necessary for the fact that, without keruyuchih signals from the generator, the field worker, having become overwhelmed, will shut down. If you don’t turn on the tightening, then the shutter can be hovered over by an extraneous ether (for example, inducing a high-voltage part of the circuit), and the policeman will miraculously appear, or hang at the critical station. When tsimu mіzh coil and drain weide the equivalent of a resistor s as a support, the strum is navantazhennia rozіgіє transistor and burn it. Pulling up to the ground is needed like with a different driver, and without it - with such a pulling up of the timer output to a plus with a resistor. It’s less likely to beat my mind, so that the nominal value of the “upper” resistor is an order of magnitude or two lower for the “lower”. Also, do not forget about the jet-wiring resistor in front of the polovik shutter, with a nominal value of 50-100 Ohm. To reduce the burden on the driver and the generator. Schemes of both options below.
Pratsyuyuchi s visible components to be brought to prepare drukovani pay s vents, tse, perhaps, one of the most important parts of the work, and, it was given b, the simplest. However, even more often during the robotic microdrill, one has to kill it, then pick it up again in order to continue the robot. The micro-relay is stashed on the table at the turned-on station, creating a lot of noise through vibration, before that it can fly out of the table, and most of the time, the engines heat up decently when the robot is completely exhausted. Well, I know, through vibration, it is important to accurately aim at the hardening of the opening and often it is so that the drill can be hardened from the pay and make a furrow on the dry paths.
The solution to the problem is as follows: it is necessary to work in such a way that the microdrill is small, small wraps in idle mode, and when driven, the wrapping frequency is increased. In this order, it is necessary to implement the offensive algorithm of the robot: without pretension - the cartridge spins properly, it squandered in the core - the turnover grew, it went through the cracks - the turnover fell again. Naygolovnіshe, which is more convenient, in a different way, the engine works in a lighter mode, with less heating and wear of the shields.
Below is a diagram of such an automatic speed controller, shown on the Internet and three additional steps to expand the functionality:
After the selection of that test, it was clear that under the skin engines it was necessary to select new denominations of the elements, which is not easy to understand. They also added a discharge resistor (R4) of the capacitor, because z'yasuvalosya, scho after the inclusion of life, and especially with the inclusion of the charge, the wines are discharged to finish the long time. Changed the scheme of the nabula of the offensive sight:
The automatic wrapping regulator works in the coming order - on idle wrappers, the drill wraps around 15-20 wraps / cold, as soon as the drill is made to prepare for drilling, the engine wraps increase to the maximum. If the opening is drilled and the thrust on the engine is weaker, then it will again fall to 15-20 revolutions / min.
The choice of attachment looks like this:
A voltage of 12 to 35 volts is applied to the input, a microdrill is connected to the output, after which the required idle frequency is set by the resistor R3 and you can proceed to work. Here it is necessary to say what regulation will be carried out from different movements, tk. our version of the circuit has a resistor, which is necessary to select for setting the threshold for increasing the wraps.
Transistor T1 when the engine is too tight, it can get very hot.
The capacitance of the capacitor C1 adds up to an hour of stuttering and the inclusion of high revolutions and helps to increase the efficiency of the engine with the help of revolutions.
The most important thing in the circuit is the nominal value of the resistor R1, in the first place the sensitivity of the circuit is to be exploited and the overall stability of the work, before that, the entire strum flows through the new one, the engine is slowed down, so it can be done hard. At our point of view, we made it foldable, from two one-watt resistors.
The controller board is designed, size 40 x 30 mm and looks like this:
Get the little ones to pay in PDF format for LUT: "zavantage"(For the next hour, enter the scale of 100%).
The whole process of preparation and selection of the regulator for the ministry takes about a year.
After etching the plate and cleaning the tracks from the back cover (photoresist or toner, fallow according to the method of preparing the plate), it is necessary to drill in the opening of the plate and the components (respect for the expansion of the visnovk in the various elements).
Then the paths and the contact maidanchiki are covered with flux, so that you can easily work for the help of a flux applicator, with which SCF flux is sufficient, or the difference between rosin and alcohol.
On the next day of payment, we install and solder the components. The automatic wrapper regulator for the microdrill is ready for use.
This attachment was overridden by the number of types of motors, a pair of Chinese different pressures, and a pair of domestic ones, a series of DPR and DPM - with the usual types of motors, the regulator works correctly after the replacement of the resistor. With an important intellectual mind, schob vin buv at the camp, tk. A bad contact of the shield with the collector of the motor can cause the strange behavior of the circuit and the robot of the motor to work. Install capacitors on the engine to spark, and install a diode to protect the circuit from the winding stream when the power is turned on.
Hello to all Muska's readers!
Zavdyaks to this miraculous site, having acquired the insipidity of short speeches, that knowledge, and at the same time, having written the first letter about the recent expansion of attachments. At the process of expansion, I will build on the low problems and successfully overcome them. Possibly, some of the novice colleagues described some of the solutions to help creativity.
For the preparation of other boards, I acquired a microdrill and a stand for it, which converts the drill into a drilling microstat. The need for this vinyl after the purchase of broken drill bits 0.5-1mm with a twist in a screwdriver and a Chinese dremel. But, as it turned out, it’s impossible to use such a tool without a wrapper regulator. Regulator virobiti independently, proudly otrimavshi new knowledge.
Radioamatorsky dosvid I have a small. Children behind Borisov's book have picked up a sprig of primers and blinkers on multivibrators. Let's send another zakhoplennya and do it.
And here, in good time, I’ve mentioned Arduino, I’ve already seen mock-ups of weather stations, robots, and I wanted to automate everything that I can reach with the help of microcontrollers. The expansion of controllers went for a change in expansion and ease of installation - Arduino UNO, Arduino Pro Mini, then purchase of ATMega328P, and for the most important and simplest additions, add ATtiny85.
The tinki, having bought more fate than that, stinks lay and minted on their card.
Screenshot of the engagement
(There is also heat shrinkage in the bula, so the price of the item is high)
MK arrived as usual in a bag of pukhirtsem, the purchase itself in a creamy plastic bag. It would be better, obviously, in a hard box, or in pink, but nothing was bent like that and all the workers.
Having soldered schematics on prototyping boards, but after reading about LUT, I realized that it’s really and more efficiently to select everything on normal other boards.
So after picking up the giblet of a brown tool, in the middle of it, a micro-woodwork MD-3 with a collet chuck and a verst for drilling other openings appeared. It would be possible to buy only a collet, and the dvigun zvіdkis vykolupati, ale virіshiv to be ready in the shop shop.
Drukuemo on the laser machine of little ones on the glossy photo paper Lomond for strumming druk. Ale phati in the new printer zovsіm no appointments for the new papyr bulo strіmko. You know at the edge that the glossy coating of the strum paper can melt, stick to the oven and ruin the printer. To test the experiment, rolled a soldering iron on the surface of the paper up to 200C (I don’t know the exact temperature of the fire, but close to that), the papier was warped a little, but nothing melted and didn’t stick - it’s also possible in the printer.
Having sent the little ones to the board, zmiv paper. On the board, there was an arch of a yak_sny baby of conductors and a glossy ball of paper that stuck. The author of the technology recommended that you see it with not very sticky electrical tape, but I didn’t put it on, because the gloss of the nitrohi was not seen, but at the same time, conductors were blown out of it. Write the same once on the duct tape. Having suffered, tying the awl, and, having shrunk among the conductors, the whole gloss may be healed. To the right is thin and sluggish, requiring vigaduvati. Then, roblyachi to a friend pay a third, shukav possіb pozbutisya accursed gloss, ale druk nі on the magazine side, nі on the basis of self-adhesives did not give such a little thing, the paths flared up and fell apart. Then zrozumіv, scho th gloss of the photo paper to clean up and zero is not obov'yazkovo - to finish the troch troch to tuck between the paths for access to the midi, and under the skin it was etched and without podryapin, krіz luster.
True honey with a variety of water peroxide and citric acid as the best available warehouse. You can see possible options for chemistries for etching with roses here
Taking peroxide from first-aid kits, I bought a bula 3 years ago, the term of attachment is 2 years old, thinking I saw it already and I won’t try it. However, having had mercy, the payment went through the badyoro - hvilini for three. Axis result: 
One track suffered from a rag with an awl, її inspired by the bite of a resistor. Plus, insignificant dirks, try zastosuvannya іzolenti. It is required to acquire a suitable marker, but for now de zmіg apply varnish.
The board was tinned with a soldering iron from the braiding. Soldered the details. 
High brass rods are screwed into one of the sides of the plate through the opening of the fastening - a handy thing, you can put the board without a case for installation and installation on the table, be it by any side, do not be afraid to break it or close it.
From the most laborious bulk, it was necessary to solder and solder the light from the side of the conductors. Yak the front side of the virishiv vikoristati bіk soldering, tk. on it, the height of the parts is much less, and the passage of the short circuit board of the shaft of the replacement resistor changes the length to the required one.
Capacitor C2 on the connection diagram should not be soldered before Reset, because Vіn hoch i pіdvishchuє nadіynіst naіynіst іnіst іnіnіstі іє, аlе іn reflashing MK іѕ mау bеvоlіti.
Having soldered the microcontroller to the rest of the circuit, before switching on the board to the power supply unit, and after switching over, nothing should be won at once and the stabilizer can be seen as a standard 5V. Nothing happened, so I plugged in the ICSP programmer and uploaded the test firmware.
We will write the firmware for the add-on from the well-known and rich Arduino programming environment, adding the ATtiny microcontroller firmware to it in advance, and extracting it from the Arduino / hardware folder.
The test sketch (I don't care about making a sensation) just reading the input signals and displaying them on the output with the connected light diodes. Because We have 4 channels in the input, and less than 2 in the output, I had a chance to re-check the number of stages.
Everything worked like it was cleared up, for one wink - the button was not readable, it was connected to one channel with a green light, and the light was bright as a red light. With a tester they showed that at the PB0 station, the flow through the light diode was over 20mA and the drop was only 2.1V. And in the entrance station with an internal tightening on the nose, a total of 1.74 when the button is released and 0.6 when pressed. It's not surprising that it reads 0 constantly. Now it became clear why two light diodes were successively connected to the last statistics.
But put another light in the middle of the box stupidly like a ballast (and on the front panel 2 of the same tezh are not needed), it seemed like crooked decisions. Thinking about how it is possible to increase the voltage in the lance of the light and guessing about the CVC of the stabilitron. If you connect in series with a light-emitting diode and a stabilitron at 2V (by working normally, on the VAC gate), then you will see the same ones that we need. If the light is on at a 10mA stream, the stabilitron breaks through and does not affect the current stream, but rather stabilizes the voltage, which falls on a new, on a given level. It is better to replace the streak-intermediating resistor, with a switch, it is necessary to choke the voltage Ures = 5V-2.1V-2.0V = 0.9V by 10mA, tobto. R=90 Ohm. And if the leg is switched to the input with a pull-up - the coolness of the I-V characteristic until the moment of breakdown of the transition, the zener diode is equivalent to a high-ohmic resistor and at the new input it’s still close to 2V, raising the voltage on the MK node when the button is released up to 4V, it’s already read. When the button is pressed, the leg will be pulled up to 5V by an internal resistor with a support of about 40KΩ (behind my roses), and the earth - by a 5KΩ resistor (which shunts the light bulb), tobto. on it will be 0.6V and FALSE is respected.
Pіdpayav stabilіtron hovering in series with the resistor and the button worked like a slіd.
Now the time has come for the revision of the SHIM robots, and here the problems have also been caused. The standard Arduino command AnalogWrite (leg, back) did not want to work. It means that it is not so from the library for the tinka. Use the wool datasheet on the MK and open the Internet.
Z'yasuvalis tsikava:
- 2 PWM channels (OC0A, OC0B) can be connected to 5, 6 (PB0, PB1) channels, which can process the skin with its own setpoint (alternatively the same frequency) in Timer 0;
- on legs 2, 3 (PB3, PB4) you can have the third PWM channel, which works in Timer 1, and on leg 3 you can have a direct PWM signal (OC1B), and on leg 2 - its inverse version (/OC1B) . Ale visnovok go either only on the 3rd leg, or on the offense at once. And we need PWM on 2 legs, if we want to invert it (software-wise, it is inverted back), so we can configure the view on 2 and 3 legs, and on 3 the signal will not pass even if it is stunned by the input.
So the axis, as far as I understand, in the ATtiny support package for Arduino, the SHIM channel in Timer 1 can only be displayed on leg 3. Maybe, yoga visnovok and the inverse version were respected for the overworld. Set the timer and PWM independently (div. code, PWM3_init function) to replace the AnalogWrite variable.
Considering that when reconfiguring Timer 1, the robot of the millis() function is beaten - it appears that Timer 1 is beaten for internal years. Alternatively, you can reset the hour to Timer 0 for additional macros in the file Arduino\hardware\tiny\cores\tiny\core_build_options. h
/* For other minds, Timer 1 is the best choice for the "Milis" timer on "85 cpu. */ #define TIMER_TO_USE_FOR_MILLIS 0
Chim mi and speedy, oskolki Timer 0 for which project is more viable.
Also, the power supply depends on the range of the rpm setting, which is read by the change resistor. The author of the design scheme, after adding a 10K permanent resistor 36K after the change, may have changed the ADC code, so that the ADC code fits into the range 0-255. Really veiled 0-230, before that I had a maximum of swimming. And I wanted to use the same 0-255 for the capacity of the new scale of the setting from the 8-bit PWM. For whom I have connected the relay and changed the jumper to + 5V, the ADC has become read the entire range, and 4 young bits are read programmatically. І nav_scho bula needed zayva detail?
After test testing the channels introduced into the microcontroller, the combat firmware is written in C in the Arduino medium for the motives of the BASIC of the author of the visual scheme.
Program text
// Attiny85 at 1MHz // Don't forget to set timer 0 for millis and in! // Arduino\hardware\tiny\cores\tiny\core_build_options.h -> TIMER_TO_USE_FOR_MILLIS 0 #include
Connected as a shunt 5 watt resistor 2.2 ohm. To protect the circuit from inductive coils, the voltage on the rear PWM front is connected in parallel to the motor by a Schottky diode SS34, and to strangle the switchover from switching windings - a 100nF capacitor. І start by testing with a drill motor.
Vіdrazu dіstaє zubodrobilne vitya PWM at 4KHz (1MHz/256). Dodaemo nalashtuvannya delnika / 4 - it felt better, although the squeaking didn’t go anywhere, but 1KHz I can’t be transferred more easily to wind up for a trival work.
In the manual mode, the engine speed is normally regulated by 0-100%, and in the automatic ADC of the reverse signal, the MAX value is constantly read and nothing works. I would like to respect that the board squeaks loudly when the motor is turned on. wtf?
We take a tester, look at an oscilloscope and start looking at what we can see and what we can take. I throw a crack. On the shunt, replace the gently sloping winds of the struma through the inductance on the cob of PWM pulses of a bachimo head of tens of volts. So, through the shunt, a pulsed stream of up to ten amperes flows! Moreover, navit for the included dvigun. No wonder the board rang. Ale scho zamikaє lanzug without dvigun? Critical capacitor 100nF! Changes during switching of the windings of the wines can be strangled, but for the time being, there is a short short-circuit short-circuit on the skin period of the SHIM! Visnovok - the old capacitor is not compatible with PWM control and control over the auxiliary shunt, which needs to be cleaned.
And here it comes to me that the high-voltage wiki can go directly to the ADC of the tinka (because there is an amplitude detector, then the capacitor on the nose is charged to the maximum voltage in the neck and safely saves it, because the discharge is only through the coil of the diode). Tinka nachebto until you die, but what about with your foot? Attach to show the current voltage on the 5.2V node, more than the voltage of life, but where else did it go? Zgaduєmo - to fight with overvoltages in the new one, specially trained diodes for "+" and "-" eating, which reminds the power supply too much. Ale vbudovani diodi kvolі and strongly rozrakhovuvat them not varto.
We take away the rice condenser, we measure the voltage with our foot - work! Nadіyni MK rob Atmel! Maybe, vryatuvalo, that the capacity of the capacitors was not high, they pumped a little charge.
Without a capacitor, the heads screeched, the board stopped playing music, the leg actually measured the amplitude of the strum pulse. We start the procedure for nailing and try to drill. Everything is as if it were necessary - when you want to add wraps, when you leave, you throw it off. Ale, not only - a sprat of time for whilina, without vanity, it breaks up and tumbles. What is unreasonable, do not show anything. Somehow the leg went down, some wires generate incomprehensible goals like that conduit, some crossed over from the same collector lizut.
Here we have overcome the problem cardinally, more having taken into account the fact that in the current scheme the peak detector does not win. Navpacki is closely controlled by the integral value of the struma, passed through the RC filter. And so, they seem to be insensitive to the point of shifting at the sight of lonely wikis. We change the diode to a resistor - and the amplitude detector is converted to a low-pass filter.
When changing the ADC, the voltage dropped by an order of magnitude - the voltage, which is greater, is much lower than the amplitude at the same time, the signal looks like gentle curls with pauses between them. Catch the voltage was close to 0.2 U. It was possible to increase the shunt opir, in addition to that, they fenced the PWM to warm up the atmosphere. And even with the great zapovnennі ShІM and navantazhennі on the motor can take overvoltage. Tom happens to practice with a low U of an unfriendly move.
The reaction to the adventurousness also swelled. Rozgin begins approximately in pvsec, but there is a big problem in what I don’t work - it’s hard to stick out and go through the middle on small wrappers. І more annual successful starts. You can practice.
I will add the final scheme: 
The attachment was mounted in the case, in the role of which was the hermetic electrical installation “Tuso soldered plastic box without glands 120x80x50 mm, IP55 sira 67052 Ruvinil Russia”. I wanted to know the plane, but I didn’t know anything like 110 * 60 * 30. To avoid spreading the garlands on the table, twisting the regulator from the power supply unit at a single point. Tsegla viishla noble, but we її і do not carry in the gut. And even if I wanted to fire a couple of dozens of doors, and if there was any memory for heating the key left, the shunt and the stabilizer did not blow, having blown a little ventilation on the bottom of that back wall.
From that hour, the workbenches with the regulator, taking part in the creation of 2 boards (how many you need to drill, you can look for the words “AVR Fusebit Doctor”. You will be more than satisfied with the robot.
I also want to note that carbide drills with Ali can make a shank of 3.2 mm, and collets were less than 3.0 and 3.5 - they don’t fit into one drill, but they don’t fit into another. Having wound a copper dart on the drill and inserting a 3.5 mm thick abyak, it is not garish. How to sharpen the collet by 3.2 with a diameter of 6 mm (we cut the hiba like dremelivsky, we grind it down to 5mm with a tail), suggest.
When changing, the drilling procedure must be completed again - maybe a different moment of inertia of a “bad” superb drill and a carbide drill with a sweat shank is indicated on the jet of the engine. But it’s hard to fight fast and don’t strain. Bazhayuchі can add the firmware to save the profiles of the drill :)
Repeatedly, the joy of drilling the plate under a ball of water sounded, so that the glassy tirsa did not dihat. I didn't have it. Accurately position the drill, if it’s high, make a break near the water, mow the ocomir. And if it’s hard to enter near the water, you start to walk the bridge and you can’t see anything. Do you need to drill the drill, and then turn it on? As a result, a bowl of water is simply put on a charge and periodically I soak a fee in it - to soak and destroy the thyrsus. At this point, the thirsa sira can’t fly, it climbs with a cone over the opening.
And one more lyrical entry, about dribne kriplennya.
For attachments, install life roses of the type "DS-225, Life socket on the panel". For yoga fastening, we used screws with nuts with 2.5mm grooves. The Comorian didn’t know anything adventitious, but then I guessed that in another time I would need 2mm of a screw. So, varto add a collection of reinforcements, so that you don’t fly to the next end of the region for the sake of the nut. At budіvelnih shops, nothing less than the M3 was trapped, therefore, it was necessary to find a specialty.
The first prominently zruchny shop appeared merrezhevy
In the middle of the eyes were broken in the presence of strong korisnosti, and the axis was not successful - the smallest screws were less than M2.5 one long, and the axis of the nuts and washers did not reach them! Impressed by the sale of nuts per piece for 2r/piece and with the purchase of the whole purchased in one T-shirt-bear (there were no other bags for different sizes). Well, it’s expensive to take in reserve fresh roses.
Viruchiv іnshiy store kr_plennya -
The axis there is really everything in reality, type M1.6, with a different slot and head, with sale by the piece and on the arm, and at a price an order of magnitude lower than the front competitor. The axis only needs to go once to the store-warehouse on the street. And it was clear that they have exclusively stainless steel, and for the greatest fastenings, you need to go to the industrial zone on the crossbeams.
In this article, we have shared with you the breakdown by us of the workbench for drilling other boards and the inclusion of all the materials necessary for independent preparation which verst. All you need is to process the details on a 3D printer, cut plywood with a laser and buy some standard components.
Design description
At the heart of the design is to make a hard-wired 12-volt engine from China. In a set with a stench engine, they sell a cartridge, a key and a dozen drills of various diameters. Most of the radioamators simply buy the engines and drill the money and the instrument is in their hands.
We have made five distances and, on the basis of this foundation, have built up a full range of work with chairs for self-sufficient cooking.
For the linear movement of the engine, we made a complete solution - polished shafts with a diameter of 8mm and linear bearings. Tse gives the possibility of minimizing backlash in the next field.
The main frame is made from 5mm plywood. We chose plywood for the one that cost more cheaply. Like the material, so the very design. From the other side, you don’t care about anything (yet it’s possible) just look at your own details on steel. Other details folding form 3D-printed.
To lift the engine at the exit, the position of the vikoristano was taken by two zvichayny clerical gums. At the upper position, the engine itself turns on for an additional switch.
On the gate we made a small case for storing the key, a small case for drilling. Grooves in a new muddy clay, to work with a handy guard, drilled with a different diameter.
Vtіm, everything is easier to play on the video:
Details to choose
Storage
The whole folding process is recorded on video:
If you follow the very same sequence, it will be easier to choose the layout.
The axis looks like this the latest set of all components for folding:
You will need the simplest hand tool for folding them. Screwdrivers, hex keys, pliers, wire cutters, etc.
Before that, start picking up the yards and work out the overruling of the details. You can see that you can pour, pidtrimki, and also open all the doors with a drill of a large diameter. Plywood details along the line of the rose can be garbled. You can also work it with an emery paper.
In addition, as all the details are ready, it is easier to install linear bearings. The stench creeps into the middle of the overworked parts and is screwed up to the side walls:
Now you can choose a plywood base. The side walls are installed on the base, and then the vertical wall is inserted. At the upper part there is an additional detail, which sets the width at the upper part. When twisting the screws around the plywood, do not apply a great susil.
At the table in the front opening, it is necessary to drill a countersink, so that the screw is hidden behind the head without worrying about drilling the board. From the end there is also an overstretched fastening detail.
Now you can fold the engine block. The wine is squeezed by two details, that chotirma with screws to a crumbly foundation. When yoga is installed, it is necessary to have vents, so that the ventilation openings are filled with water. On the basis of the wines, fasten with additional clamps. On the back, the shaft will seep into the bearing, and then the clamps will flicker on the new one. Also, install a M3x35 screw, which is a micropermeable for the future onslaught.
The micro-permeator is installed on the openings with a button at the back of the engine. Pіznіshe yogo camp you can bude klibruvati.
The gums are thrown onto the lower part of the dvigun and stretched to the "horns". The tightness needs to be adjusted so that the engine rises to the end.
Now you can solder all the darts. On the block of the engine and handing it out with a micro-permeable device, open it for clamps, to close the wire. Also, this inspection can be carried out in the middle of the verst and on the return side. Be sure to solder the wires on jumpers to normally closed contacts.
It was only left to put a pencil case for drilling. It is necessary to squeeze the top cap tightly, and tighten the bottom cap slightly, using a vicorist nut with a nylon insert.
On whom the warehouse is finished!
You can glue the plywood parts from the boards to increase the hardness. You can also rob the engine wrapper regulator.
Enthusiasm...